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There wasn't much of a difference between this redraft and Brenda's except that I added a 1/4" strip to the sides. This makes the center a perfect octogon instead of looking somewhat lopsided.

The easiest way to piece this is probably to sew four of the 1/4" to the center octogon and the other four to the outside triangles.

Then, you can sew the outside triangles to the center pieced octogon in the same procedure you used for D13.

D9 is almost the same as in the book. The only real difference is that I made the strips in the center 5/8" which made the outside wider than the 1/4" in Brenda's draft.

I also suggest you color in the block to make sure you're cutting out the correct pieces in the correct color, that X is the non-focus fabric (although it would kind of look neat if it was even darker than the focus fabric, lightening out to the edges...)

To construct, I would make the center X motif and then piece the corners (two of the corners will be "truncated.") Piece the truncated corners to the center X, and then the other "full" corners to that. Finally, "log cabin" around the outside (in this draft 3/8" strips are used.)

I didn't change much about D11 except the center, which is a rectangle in the book, and a square here.

I also made those outside diamonds 5/8" squares which made them fall short of the outside of the block. They were appliqued after the block was pieced.

E4 has some additional pieces on the edge of the corner triangles which don't appear in the photo. Either the photo was cropped, or Jane didn't have them either. I didn't bother with them.

I also altered E5 from the drawing. The center circle is appliqued on, but not pieced in tiny slivers as in the drawing. I didn't actually redraft it, though.

My version of E7 has many more pieces than in the book. I also think it is easier to construct, though not an "easy" block by any means since it has several set-in pieces.

Construct the octogons first by piecing the truncated squares to the 1/4" (finished) strips. Set in two of the side triangles, and, on one set half of the center.

Add another octogon, setting in the center and then the side.

Finally complete the center of the block and then sash around it.

Once again, this is a minor change from the book. I felt the triangles on the side were right angles and not equalateral.

Construction remains the same: The central 2-patch is sashed around using a "courthouse steps" variation, and then triangles are added to put it on point (as in D13.)

Finally, the outside corners are constructed by either appliqueing the triangles on or piecing them in. These corners are then added to make the entire block on point (again, as in D13.)